Picture of Young fern in the rainforest (Kaieteur, Guyana)

Fern about to unfold

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The only alternative to flying is to boat and hike to Kaieteur Falls; indeed, a much more exciting way that will leave you with a lasting impression of the rainforest.
I woke up to heavy rains the morning I was to leave for Kaieteur Falls. During our drive to Mahdia, it was dry, but rain never seemed far away, despite this being the dry season. Huge clouds gathered in the sky while we waited for the ferry across the Essequibo river to be fixed. Later, we lost more time struggling up a steep muddy slope. By the time we arrived at Pamela landing on the Potaro river, it was getting dark. The sky was fantastic and threatening at the same time, enhanced by a perfect reflection in the peaceful waters of the river. We enjoyed some great views of the river, but the light was fading, rapidly. Then, it was dark. Pitchdark. Our captain skillfully steered clear of rocks, sandbanks and the river bank, following the bends in the river without any fault. He obviously had been here before. Then, the rain started. By the time we arrived at Amatuk Falls, an hour later, we were soaking wet. That night, it never stopped raining. Lying in our hammocks, we heard the rain hammering the roof. Fortunately, we did not have to go far the following day. We waited for the rain to diminish, following Tony's rule: one should never start walking when it is raining.
Read more about: Kaieteur overland

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