Picture of Santa Engracia church which doubles as the Pantheon (Lisbon, Portugal)

Pantheon or Santa Engracia church

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Alfama is the oldest district of Lisbon; with cobble-stone streets, old churches, peaceful squares, and the best views over the city there are sufficient reasons to walk up to Alfama.
Taking a subway to Santa Apolonia station, I walked up a hill through narrow, quiet cobble-stone streets, right into the Alfama district. At times dilapidated houses, at times surprisingly beautiful, with exterior decorations and bright colours, this area breathed authenticity. When I turned one corner, the blindingly white National Pantheon towered high above me, dominating this part of the city. From here, following the twists and turns of the streets, I walked on through completely abandoned streets that could have been in some empty village in the countryside, to small squares, narrow streets with yellow streetcars working their way up the steep hills, narrow cobble-stone alleys where you could almost reach both sides of the street with your arms. I saw an old man closing the door of his colourful house, kids playing in a street without traffic (the luxury!), and often, I did not see anyone. After many detours, going up and down the hills of Alfama, I ended my walking tour at the feet of the Cathedral of Lisbon, basking in the late afternoon sun. A delicious Portuguese dinner was the conclusion of an intensive walk through this irresistible part of Lisbon.
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